Our spies have discovered that our favourite lounge in the medina, Fez Lounge, has changed his menu, and now they propose a delicious chicken taboulé inspired in Lebanon, Feta goat salad, or the original Pastilla filled with fish. And with now a menu for two called 'Moroccan Feast' at 150 dh each (15 euros) you really dont have any excuse not to go!

http://www.fezlounge.com/ in 95, Zkak Rouah Tala Kbira FEZ MEDINA

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Hammām is from the Arabic root "ḥmm" with a general meaning of "heat". The word ḥammām simply means "bathroom" or "toilet" in many dialects of vernacular Arabic, while it means hot springs or spa town in other dialects.

A typical hamam consists of three interconnected basic rooms similar to its Roman ancestors: the 'sıcaklık' (or hararet -caldarium) which is the hot room, the warm room (tepidarium) which is the intermediate room and the 'soğukluk' which is the cool room, but that may vary from one hamam to another, and depending on the country.

Getting to know -and love- Fez can be a tiresome process that involves walking slopes up & down during hours, rub shoulders with pitiless donkeys and bargaining goods you dont really want during large amounts of time. You will need some pampering. Threat yourself to a traditional hamam in the medina and experience a real 'gommage' (scrubbing of your whole body), or head to ville nouvelle for a luxurious spa. Here is our selection:

Ain Azliten Hamam

Arguably the cleanest of them all in the medina, yet not the arab dream you may dream of. Different times for men and women, this is not Sweden. It costs around 40 dh (4 euros), and its opposite the parking car.

(dont dream, the photo is not from this hamam)

Hammam de Guerniz

A hidden gem, no tourists ever go to this very old hammam in one of the oldest neighbourhoods of the city. The street is called Derb el Hamam, just ask direcctions. 10 dh the entrace, black soap 1 dh, but note that as a tourist you may be charged double. women 10h to 20h, men 21h to 24h.

Seffarine Hammam

This hammam has been chosen to be completely renovated with italian funds, but is not yet finished. Once the lifting is done it will probably be the amongst the prefered. Similar prices.

Off the square Seffarine.

Nausikaa

Located in the skirts of the Ville Nouvelle, its worht a visit if you are a luxury spa lover. They have gym, pool, hairdresser, sauna and tradicional hammam. At 100 dh the 'gommage' is not overpriced and will leave you feeling incredibly healthy. Avenue BahniniRoute Aïn SmenFès + 212 (0) 35 61 00 06 http://www.nausikaa-spa.com/

Yuba spa

specialist in thai massage, but they also offer traditional hammam that can be enjoyed alone or in couple. Reasonable prices yet not cheap. www.yuba-cyn-spa.com/contact.htm

One of the highlights of your stay in Fez will be for sure the infamous Fez Tanneries. If Morocco is famous for its leather goods, it owes its reputation to the young men who work in tanneries like this one, using the same methods today that were used centuries before. The secret ingredients for a perfect dying are quite evident once you smell a peculiar perfume in the air. While most of the bazaars will provide you with some mint to avoid the smell, Gatsby always prefers its own handkerchief with some drops of Serge Lutens 'cedre'.

There are many tanneries in Fez, but the most famous are the ones located near the Karaouine mosque, the chouara tanneurs. They are really impressing and make a very good photo, so good in fact that Gatsby once used it as a setting for a catalogue of a well known spanish fashion brand.

From above the view of the men stamping the skins in the circles of color, or spreading out the vivid, yellow saffron dye, is fascinating. A walk at ground level will be something quite different altogether as you come face to face with knife wielding workers softening the leather and get a whole new perspective on hard work.

Visitors can climb to any one of the terraces belonging to the surrounding leather shops that look down on the tanners' yard, honeycombed with vats of dye and piled with skins.

Afterwards you can visit any number of leather shops and see for yourself the product of such hard work, and you'll be smoothly invited to buy, and maybe you should, because the quality of the products is often excellent and a real bargain.